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Leslie Rogalski, expert seed beader, weaves parallel crystals and pearls.

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Parallel Crystals and Pearls Cuff
By Leslie Rogalski

Silky and lightweight black poly chain is the lifeline of this sumptuous bracelet. A basic crisscross stitch creates a bottom layer of Swarovski crystals with borders of seed beads and 3mm crystals, and a top layer with Swarovski crystal pearls and seed beads. Simple wire wrapped loops are all it takes to make the blingalicious closure with Swarovski rondelles.

Techniques: two-needle crisscross weave, wire wrap loop, working with chain links
Finished length: 7 ½"

MATERIALS IN KIT
Beadalon polyester chain, (240-M 201) black, 10"
6mm Swarovski round crystals (5000), 34 +4 extra
4mm Swarovski crystal pearls (001), 34 +4 extra
3mm Swarovski crystal elements (5000), 35 + 4 extra
Size 10° Delica cylinder beads cream Ceylon, 9g (A)
Size 10° Delica cylinder beads matte black, 9g (B)
Size 11° Delica cylinder beads, 5g
Size 6mm crystal rondelles, 4
1 toggle clasp
Beadalon 22 gauge Artistic wire, 6" silver

YOU ALSO NEED
Beadalon Wildfire beading thread, black .006
2 hard beading needles size 10 or 12
Scissors
Round nose pliers
Chain nose pliers
Wire snips
2 regular paper clips
Regular cellophane tape

 

HOW TO ADJUST CUFF LENGTH:
Your total bracelet size will be the beaded chain length + entire clasp and accent bead closure length. You always need an odd number of links, and the chain length shrinks up as you bead it.  One inch of beaded chain uses about 7 links.

Start with a long piece of chain and measure it as you work. You can always snip off excess links when you reach your desired beaded length but you cannot add to the chain. Be sure to end on an odd number "up" link the same as the first link you beaded.

LINE UP THE CHAIN LINKS
1.   Help keep the chain links aligned by taping the chain to your worktable or a firm surface.  Do not tape to a beading mat. Link a paper clip to one end link and tape it to the table, keeping the link standing "up" like a little tire. Alternate links so every other link lies flat on the table or stands up.

Place another piece of tape lightly across the chain about 2" from the other end to help keep the links aligned. As you bead and the links are stitched closer together, pull the chain bit by bit from beneath this second piece of tape.

Crisscross stitching is done through the "up" links. Both end links should be "up" links.  Make sure the links are aligned and parallel as you work.

CRISSCROSS CRYSTALS AND BEADS ALONG THE CHAIN (FIG 1)
2. Thread a needle on each end of a 5' length of thread. On one needle string 1 pink 6mm crystal and 1 black cylinder and pass through the first link.  On the other needle string 1 pink crystal. Slide the crystals and black cylinder to the chain and pull both needles to an even length keeping one crystal on each side of the up link with the cylinder inside the link. (The bead strung between the crystals acts as a spacer so the crystals don’t pull too tightly against the chain links.)

3. On one needle string this trio of cylinder beads: 1 cream, 1 black, and 1 cream. String 1 pink 6mm crystal and 1 black cylinder (which will act as the spacer cylinder). Skip a link and pass through the next up link.  Pull the beads to the link. Lay this needle down.

4. On the second needle string the cylinder trio (cream, black, cream) and 1 pink 6mm crystal. Crisscross back through the same up link just strung, the spacer cylinder and the crystal strung on the first needle.

5. Pass the first needle in the opposite direction (crisscross) through the crystal just strung on the second needle. Pull threads straight out from the crystals at 90° to snug the crystals alongside the up links.

6. Repeat Step 3–5, working crisscross stitch with pink crystals and a border of the trio of cream and black cylinder beads. As you work, push the poly chain flat links under the crystals. The up links should line up VERTICALLY, just touching edge to edge. Use round nose pliers to gently turn the links.

TIPS: Pull tension gently and allow some ease so the border of cylinders make a straight border, and the crystals' holes face line up straight across the chain from each other, facing straight out. The up links should barely touch each other, but not overlap. As you work you can adjust easily by pulling each side trio of beads with your fingers, working up the piece as you would tighten or loosen laced shoes. There will be spaces between each trio of cylinders; they will be filled with the 3mm Jet crystals.

7. In the last link, crisscross the needles and exit the crystals.

ADD ACCENT CRYSTALS (OR BEADS) TO THE BORDER (FIG 2)
8. Untape the cuff. Pass one needle back through the cylinder trios along the side of the cuff, but string 1 jet 3mm crystal between the trios. Repeat with the other needle along the other side. Now is the time to pull both threads to snug up the border beads into nice straight rows.

SECURE AND TIE OFF THE BORDER
9. When you reach the beginning again with both needles, crisscross through the first pink crystals and spacer cylinder. Pass each needle individually back through the border trios and accent crystals along each side. Flip the cuff over with the crystals lying against your worktable so the chain faces up. Adjust the links that have not been beaded to be relatively parallel to each other perpendicular to the beaded links. They tend to be wiggly.

10. At the end link, pass one needle through the last crystal and the cylinder and the link, and the other needle just through the crystal, so the working threads meet within the last chain link next to the cylinder bead. Knot the tail and working thread securely. Weave in ends, and trim.

 

CRISSCROSS PEARLS AND SEED BEADS TOP LAYER (FIG 3)
11.  Keep the chain facing up. Stitch this layer through the same "up" links only this layer is on the other side of the flat links. Cut a new 4' piece of thread and string a needle on each end leaving 5" tails. Pass one needle through the end link and pull so the needles are at even lengths. String 5 size 11° black cylinders on one needle and slide them to the chain, centering them through the link.

TIPS

  • Crisscrossing means the stitches pass back in opposite directions
  • Do not pierce the poly chain links during the crisscross.
  • Make sure to pass both needles through the chain link in each crisscross.
  • Make sure this layer sits on top of the flat links.
  • Slide strung beads and pearls off the needles onto the threads before crisscrossing through the seed bead and the chain link.

12. String 1 4mm pearl on each needle and bring them to the chain.

13. String 3 size 11°s on one needle and 2 size 11°s on the other. Pass the needle with 3 size 11°s through the next up link. Crisscross the needle with 2 size 11°s through this link and crisscross back through the first 11° strung on the other needle. String 2 size 11°s and 1 pearl on both needles.

14. Repeat Step 13 for the remaining up links.

TIP
Note how you are simply working crisscrossed to stitch a figure-8 path along the chain by passing through the "up" chain links. Pull both threads evenly to have the pearls snug up; they sit more or less over the flat links. The "up" links should just touch but not overlap so do not pull too tightly.

15. At the last link string 3 size 11°s on one needle and 2 size 11°s on the other. Crisscross through the last up link as before but pass the needles back through the beads just strung so the working threads meet. Knot securely. Weave in the tails and trim.

RONDELLE ACCENT FINISH AND CLASP (FIG 4)
16. Use wire snips to cut the 22g wire into 2 pieces 3" each. On one piece make a small wire-wrapped loop capturing the last chain link of the poly chain. Slide on 1 rondelle, 1 6mm crystal, 1 rondelle, and 1 4mm pearl. Slide on the loop of the toggle ring and complete the wrapped loop, pulling the elements on the wire snugly together. Repeat for the other side of the beaded chain with the toggle bar.

SIMPLE CLASP FINISH: Make the beaded chain longer and use jump rings to attach the toggles to each end chain link.

Leslie Rogalski & Katie Hacker

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