About Turquoise
Turquoise is found in dry barren regions where acidic, copper-rich groundwater
trickles down and reacts with minerals that contain phosphorus and aluminum.
Turquoise was first mined in the Sinai Desert 7,500 years ago, the mines
in Persia, and Iran, dating back 5,200 years. Today, it is mined in China,
Egypt, Chile, Iran and the southwestern U.S.A.
Turquoise is valued by its color, texture, and the presence or lack of
matrix. As 95% of the turquoise on the market is now stabilized or enhanced,
natural turquoise is the most valuable. Natural Persian turquoise called
“Robins-egg blue” is the most valuable.
Sleeping Beauty turquoise, from the Southwestern U.S, is enhanced by the
Zachary method which hardens and slightly darkens the material without
filling it with polymer, wax or dye.
The Drag Test
One way to tell natural turquoise from stabilized or enhanced is to drag
your thumb over the material, if your thumb glides; it is natural, if
your thumb drags a bit the material is stabilized. One exception is imitation
turquoise, it is smooth; but close observation of the “matrix”
will reveal an almost painted-on look.
What is Chalk turquoise?
A turquoise mine will usually produce a white chalk-like material which
has all the same chemical composition as turquoise, minus the copper (it’s
the copper that causes the turquoise color). The chalk is then dyed and
stabilized producing a material hard enough to use in jewelry with a pleasing
turquoise color.
Turquoise Necklace
Turquoise is very versatile in jewelry, combining beautifully with both
silver, gold and many gemstones; it has earned an important place in the
jewelry industry.
2 packs assorted turquoise donuts, medium/large F14-1398NB
1 pack assorted gemstone donuts F14-5453KL
1 strand turquoise, 8mm F14-4380GS
1 pack (5 ft.) sterling silver chain (makes 2 necklaces) F14-1063CH
1 sterling silver bead with dots, large hole F14-7498FD
1 sterling silver, filigree bead, large hole F14-7485FD
1 sterling silver spiral toggle clasp F14-7313FN
1 pack sterling silver jump rings (to attach the toggle clasp) F14-2016FD
1 spool of sterling silver beading wire F14-2536BS
1 pack (10) sterling silver crimps F14-1892FN
1 pair crimping pliers
1 pair beading wire nippers
2 pair chain-nose pliers
Optional:
1 pack mixed gemstone donut shapes F14-8967KL
1. Unwind some chain and place around your neck; cut the chain to the
length of the desired necklace, plus 1”.
2. Feed the chain through the hole of the largest donut and the optional
large donut shape.
3. Feed both ends of the chain through the sterling silver filigree large-hole
bead.
4. Feed one end of the chain through the hole of a smaller donut, turn
the donut over and feed the other end of the chain through the other side
of the donut.
5. Feed both ends of the chain through 3 small donuts and the sterling
silver large-hole bead with dots.
6. Use 2 pairs of chain-nose pliers to open the jump ring. Have the center
of the ring facing you, move one end of the ring away from you while you
hold the other end steady. Slip the end of the chain and one side of the
toggle clasp onto the open ring; close the ring. Repeat for the other
side of the necklace.
7. Cut 8” of beading wire. Crimp a crimp bead on the end of the
wire; after crimping with both stations of the crimping pliers, give the
crimp an extra squeeze with the chain nose pliers to make sure the crimp
is really tight.
8. Thread the wire through a link in the chain (the crimp bead will keep
the wire from coming through). Add an 8mm bead, count 3 links in the chain
then go into the fourth link – this will give the bead a good place
to “sit.” Repeat this 2 more times making a three-bead section.
Add a crimp bead to the beading wire and crimp it, pulling on the wire
so the chain curves well around the beads.
9. Make as many bead sections as you would like on both sides, once you’re
happy with the way the chain looks, you’re necklace is done!
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